Monday, July 19, 2010

Running of the Bulls and the Fifa World Cup Finals


I wasn´t going to go to Pamplona last Sunday. The night before I had gone out dancing until the wee hours of the morning and had only gotten about one or two hours of sleep. To say the least, I was a wreck. I had a friend who was coming down from France with her brother and his friends and who had invited me to go to Pamplona with them. That Sunday morning she had come round to my work and asked if I was still up to going, at which I had at first responded, `no.´ After a morning of cleaning bathrooms and changing beds I lay down in my own bed for a short siesta. As I lay there I came to the realization that it would be completely idiotic to give up such an opportunity. There would always be other times to sleep.

Quickly, I rounded up as much white clothing as I could find, a few cans of red bull and was out the door to find my friend and go to Pamplona. I found them slowly moving around their camper van, looking just as rough as I did. From that moment on I knew it was going to be an interesting day.
We arrived in Pamplona at around 3pm and everywhere I looked there were people wearing white shirts and pants with red bandanas around their necks and sashes around their waists. People driving in cars, people at work, tourists; everybody was wearing the traditional clothing and everybody was in the festive mood. I felt quite out of place with my jeans and white tank top and so was determined to go and buy some white pants and a red sash, knowing full well that in a couple of hours they would be stained red with sangria.












As we walked towards the center of town and the main streets of the fiesta we saw people sleeping everywhere: on the grass in the parks, on benches, in the bus stops and stations, absolutely everywhere. As we got closer we could hear music coming from every direction, and as we entered the center 2, 3, 4 bands came out of nowhere, walking through the streets with banners held high, playing music. Alongside them people were dancing, drinking, and overall loving life.




So as not to look out of place we quickly got ourselves some cheap champagne and beers and joined in the festivities. We followed the bands up and down the streets until we found ourselves in the main plaza where we settled down, with some local cider, to wait for the World Cup Finals to begin.

A huge screen was set up at the front of the plaza and in a short while it was packed with hundreds, perhaps a thousand, people, all in white and red and all having drunk a bit too much. The guys that I was with started to get rowdier and rowdier and sangria, beer, and cider started spray to everywhere; so much for my white clothes.



The game dragged on and on with no score. When Spain finally scored the crowd went bezerk; shouting, singing, and dancing! It was an amazing sight to see. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't sitting back watching the whole thing take place, I was right in there with the rest, singing and dancing with whomever was nearby.

The night didn't end there, it was filled with dancing salsa, merangue, and who knows what else, with my new found friend and dance partner, all over the streets. There were still bands playing in the small side streets at 3-4am which provided the perfect atmosphere. I finally crashed at around 5am and was able to sleep for 2 hours in the park, at which point I went off to watch a friend participate in the Running of the Bulls.



This in itself was intense to watch. 6 large bulls and 6 smaller ones raced through the streets after a large number of people; mainly men as it is culturally inappropriate for women to run. People struggled to get past each other and out of the way of the bulls as they tore through the narrow streets and into the arena.












Once in the arena all but one bull was guided out and into a holding pen. The one that remained was taunted and provoked by the men waving red bandanas, until they got it running around the arena chasing whatever red it could see. Everybody wanted to touch the bull and everybody wanted it to chase them. Men went flying in the air everywhere as the bull picked them up and threw them aside. It sounds dangerous and as though it would hurt, but after being hit the men just picked themselves up again and bowed to the crowd, proud to have been the one hurtled into the air.

What was amazing was the respect that the locals had for the bull. No one could hold onto its horns, head, tail, etc. or else they would recieve a full-on thwack to the head and a earful of profanities from the other runners and the crowd.
In the evening a number of the bulls are put in the arena once again, but this time with a matador whose sole job is to spear the bull and do his best not to get gored himself. It is said that the bulls that get killed by the matador (which I believe they always do) are slaughtered and the meat given to a local charity for the homeless.
I didn't stay to see the bull fight but headed back to San Sebastian to relax and sleep. As I walked through the streets back to my apartment I felt myself fill with an amazing sense of satisfaction and excitment, one that arose from having been able to have experienced not only the Running of the Bulls but the win for Spain in the World Cup Finals. I was glad that I had made the decision not to pass up this opportunity for a few lousy hours of sleep, and now I know that if such an event occurs again I am more than able to run on 4 hours of sleep in 48 hours.








Sunday, July 4, 2010

I think I may stay awhile


The Tapas (pintxos) in San Sebastian. Supposably the best in Spain!

So as I have stated in previous postings, I have fallen quite badly for San Sebastian and because of this I have decided to stay here for just a bit longer. Actually, at the moment I will be staying here for the month of July as I have gotten myself and job and a place to live!

It all started when another traveler wanted to stay a bit longer at the hostel as well and so ask if she could work for her living expenses there. At this point I was looking madly for a nice, small hostel to stay at in Bilbao (my next destination), with no avail. One day I jokingly said that I too wanted a job, and they gave me one.

The only problem that they had was that they had no free spaces for me to stay at the hostel, for the month. July is their craziest month due to the San Fermin festival in Pamplona, otherwise known as the Running of the Bulls. Many people come to stay in San Sebastian and than travel each day to Pamplona, which is just an hour away.

So I started scanning newspapers and their equivalent of craigslist for a shared apartment. I send out tons of messages and only heard back from one person who turned out not to be too keen on having somebody just for one month. I started to think that this was not going to work out and that I would have to move on. At that point I decided just to let whatever happens happen. I decided that if nothing came about in regards to somewhere to live than I would move on, and that that would be just as good as staying in San Sebastian.

After making this decision, whilst lying on the beach sun tanning myself, I returned to the hostel to let the owner, Paul, know that this may not be possible. When we started talking he said that if nothing turns up that I could always sleeping in his camper van which was parked about 25minutes away from the hostel. This idea actually excited me; only the idea of having to walk such a far way home after the bar at 4:00am (usually time here) made me not jump at the idea. We decided that if nothing showed up before the 1st of July I would go live in the van until a bed came available at one of the two hostels.

That evening Paul contacted me and told me that he knew somebody who was looking for somebody to rent a room in his apartment with him in the old part of the city, where the hostels are both located. At 11:30 that night I went to have a look. The apartment was beautiful and newly renovated, and above all it was quiet and not filled with a bunch of drunk and rowdy people. I was home.

So now I have been in San Sebastian for the past 2 weeks and working for the last 4. I have become a bit lazy and have not done as much surfing as I once did and do tend to end up on the beach every single afternoon after work, and in a bar every single night, but I’m having fun. I have made some friends, especially Pame, who is the sister of the owner of the hostel and my coworker. She is a very sweet and kind-hearted Argentinean who can become quite feisty whilst watching Argentina play in the World Cup as well as when she feels that a guy is acting inappropriately at a bar. I have had to hold her back a few times from getting up to much in the face of somebody who has stepped over the line, in her opinion. But besides that she is honestly probably one of the sweetest persons I have ever met and would, and has, bend over backwards to help a friend out.

And so life continues here: working, sun tanning, partying, and trying to get a grasp of the Castilian Spanish they speak here. Life in all is good.

My Apartment